You don’t need a green thumb. You need a simple setup, good habits, and one rule: keep herbs within arm’s reach.
If you’ve ever bought herbs and watched them die in the fridge within 48 hours… welcome to the club.
That’s exactly why I grow my own.
Not fancy. Not pretty pots. Not raised beds.
Two black storage crates from Bunnings, clipped together, sitting in the sun.
No bending. No fuss. And I snip what I need with scissors like I’m harvesting flavour insurance.
The Black-Crate Herb Garden (Chef Ian Approved)
What you need
- 2 black storage crates
- potting mix + compost
- 4–6 herb seedlings
- drill (for drainage holes)
- scissors (your new best friend)
How to build it
- Put one crate on the ground (base).
- Drill drainage holes in the second crate (top).
- Clip the top crate onto the base crate (now it’s waist height).
- Fill with soil + compost.
- Plant herbs snugly (they like the company).
- Water in, and let the sun do its job.
Why I love this setup
- No bending
- Cheap as chips
- Small footprint
- Portable if you need to move it
- Enough herbs for real cooking, not just decoration
The Best Herbs for Beginners
If you’re starting out, don’t plant the whole botanical garden. Plant the workhorses:
- Parsley: reliable, productive, goes with everything
- Thyme: loves sun and neglect (perfect)
- Chives: cut them and they come back stronger
- Basil: summer superstar (warmth is key)
- Rosemary: tough as nails
- Mint: impossible to kill (but keep it contained)
Chef tip: mint spreads like wildfire — keep it in its own pot unless you want a mint takeover.
Coriander: The Honest Truth (It’s a Drama Queen)
Coriander is one of the most-used herbs… and one of the hardest to keep happy.
Why it “goes to seed”
Coriander bolts (flowers) quickly when it gets:
- hot weather
- inconsistent watering
- stress (dry soil even once)
Once it bolts, the leaves get smaller and the plant focuses on seed.
How to grow coriander successfully
- Plant it separately (give it its own container or section)
- Keep it consistently moist (not flooded — just never dry)
- Give it morning sun / afternoon shade in warmer months
- Succession plant (new seedlings every 2–3 weeks) so you always have a fresh patch
The game-changer: an Oya (Olla) watering pot
If coriander keeps dying on you, use an oya/olla — a porous clay pot that slowly releases water into the soil.
- Bury it near the coriander roots
- Fill it every few days
- It keeps moisture steady (which coriander loves)
Result: less bolting, happier coriander, more leaves.
How to Store Herbs So They Last
Soft herbs (parsley, coriander, dill, mint)
- Trim stems
- Stand in a jar of water like flowers
- Loosely cover with a produce bag
- Into the fridge
Except basil: basil hates the fridge — keep it on the bench in water.
Hardy herbs (rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano)
- Don’t wash
- Wrap in dry paper towel
- Store in a container or zip bag in the fridge
Chef tip: moisture is what kills herbs. Dry storage = longer life.
Freezing Herbs: The Smart Way
Method 1: Herb “flavour bombs”
- Chop herbs
- Pack into ice cube tray
- Cover with olive oil (or melted butter)
- Freeze, then store cubes in a labelled bag/container
Perfect for: thyme, rosemary, parsley, chives, oregano
Method 2: Freeze leaves whole
Lay leaves on a tray, freeze, then bag them.
Great for: basil, sage, mint, shiso
Unexpected Chef Uses (That Actually Make Life Easier)
- Herb butter: herbs + softened butter, roll, slice when needed
- Herb oils: warm oil + herbs (brief steep), strain, drizzle
- Herb ice cubes: mint/lemon balm in ice cubes for drinks
- Bench bouquet: herbs in a jar look great and remind you to use them
Final Thought From Chef Ian
Growing herbs isn’t gardening — it’s flavour insurance.
Once you can walk outside and snip what you need, your cooking changes overnight.
Less stress. More freshness. Better food.
Chef Ian
